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Hanoi doesn’t ease you in. You step out of the airport, into the traffic, into the noise and the heat and the smell of charcoal and coffee — and either it overwhelms you or it pulls you straight in. For me it was the second one. I came for a few days and stayed two…

The lagoons are worth every photo you’ve seen. But the El Nido I keep coming back for is the one you reach on two wheels, with no boat, no schedule, and no one else around. Most people come to El Nido for the islands — and they should. Bacuit Bay, with its limestone cliffs rising…